Sunday, December 11, 2011

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Tuesday, December 6, 2011

Termite Deterrents - Best Chemicals to Eliminate Termites Include Sentricon and Termidor

!: Termite Deterrents - Best Chemicals to Eliminate Termites Include Sentricon and Termidor

If you're a homeowner who doesn't want to have your home devoured out from under you, you're probably looking for termite deterrents, best chemicals to eliminate termites.

Termites can wreck your home, and it's a good idea to try and get ahead of them and stop them before they have a chance to get started. Termites do more than a billion dollars of damage to homes in the US each year and you do not want to be one of them.

Since the idea is to prevent termites and not just kill them, there are several chemicals that you are going to want to use. They are each useful for different situations, so I'm going to go over a variety of them so that you will have a chance to figure out which one will be best for you.

Sentricon is one of the more popular chemical systems available today. It uses a baiting system, which means that it's designed to kill the colony. How it works is that you place bait stations around your home that contain wood that is treated with chemicals that affect the termites.

The termites that eat the bait then take it back to the colony where it begins to affect the young termites, preventing them from reaching maturity. Once the adults die, there's no generation coming along to replace them, and the colony dies. Sentricon works best for termite problems that haven't infiltrated your house.

The main competitor with Sentricon is Termidor, which is a chemical used as a barrier. Basically the ground around and sometimes under your house is saturated with Termidor, which contains a chemical that kills the termites.

Properly done, this creates a barrier around your home that termites can't penetrate. Termidor is actually slow acting, so that the termites can take it back to the colony with them, so you get some of the baiting effect.

Termidor works better for prevention than it does for a cure. If you don't have termites and don't want to get them, then this is probably the method for you. It can be effective when the colony has already penetrated your home, but it's mostly designed to keep them away.

Neither of these chemicals are one hundred percent. In the case of Sentricon, there are questions about how effective it is in all situations. For Termidor, the problems can arise if the ground isn't thoroughly saturated. In either case, proper use is key to getting proper results.

For people of a more old fashioned and natural bent, boric acid is always an option. Despite the name, boric acid won't burn you if you touch it. You shouldn't eat or drink it, but otherwise it's pretty non toxic to humans. To termites and other insects, it shuts their nervous system down and dries them out. Boric acid is very cheap and available almost everywhere, from grocery stores to drug stores.

The best termite deterrents, best chemicals to eliminate termiites are these three, and you can't go wrong with one of these choices if you want to keep your home healthy and termite free.


Termite Deterrents - Best Chemicals to Eliminate Termites Include Sentricon and Termidor

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Friday, December 2, 2011

Top Ten House Alarm and Home Security Devices

!: Top Ten House Alarm and Home Security Devices

A man's home is his castle, as the saying goes. But homes today don't normally feature ramparts, drawbridges, moats and six-foot thick stone walls to keep out unwanted visitors. Today, a house alarm, and preferably a managed home security system, is needed to ensure your home's security. Not only does installing a home security system improve the safety of your family and possessions, but it can also decrease your home insurance costs. The Top Ten House Alarm and Home Security Devices list highlights ten devices and features of home security systems that can make your house a safer place.

The Top Ten

10. Talking Devices help you to understand the status of your home and monitoring as well as program the system. Some security systems feature talking master control panels, key pads or remotes. The talking feature may not result in great conversation, but it will help you understand your system a little better.

9. Some home alarm systems include extras like Key Fobs and Remotes to control the system at a distance. Somewhat similar to a car's key fob, home security key fobs include buttons to activate and deactivate the house alarm system. Some even include a "panic" button that activates the house alarm and alerts the proper authorities in the event of an emergency. Remote controls are similar and often larger. The features of remotes vary greatly and can include a full key pad, a talking feature and a panic button as well.

8. Yard Signs and House or Window Decals advertise your home's protection. The Greenwich Study of Residential Security found that homes without alarms were 2.7 to 3.5 times more likely to be burglarized, and that the most effective deterrent was the alarm monitoring company's yard sign (SIA Research Update, Security Industry Association, October 2001). Some choose to post the signs to deter possible break-ins without actually installing a home alarm system. While this effort will lower the odds of an attempted burglary, a yard sign alone cannot fully protect your home.

7. A Back-Up Power Supply is important in maintaining home security even during a power outage, when the risk of break-ins and looting is increased. Your home alarm should be effective even when your power is not. The easiest to maintain back-up power supplies use standard size batteries. Look for a model that uses rechargeable batteries to lower your maintenance costs.

6. Smoke Detectors add another layer of protection to your home, especially when they are integrated into the home alarm system. Not only do smoke detectors indicate a fire and give you time to escape safely, but when included in a home security package, they automatically notify the managing company and the fire department. Some systems even integrate the power supply to the smoke detectors. That means you don't have to change the batteries ever!

5. Wireless Systems protect your home without adding extra cords to trip over or extensive installation of in-wall cords. In wireless house alarm systems, each sensor or keypad communicates with the master control panel via radio frequencies or existing wiring in your home. A burglar will never be able to disarm the system by snipping the wires. This ensures the system is fully integrated and monitoring all parts of your home without using up your outlets or creating an obstacle course of wires for you.

4. Extra Key Pads are also important. Exterior mounted key pads can provide secure keyless entry to your family. Some systems also offer remote control key pads which are lightweight and portable. A home alarm system that features a security code with a key pad increases the security of your home. A monitored system can also lock down entry after several repeated, failed attempts at entry which indicate a possible break-in attempt.

3. Key pads may not always be enough to keep burglars out. Sensors on Windows and Doors reduce the risk of a burglar entering undetected and are a key part of a home alarm system. Motion Detectors within the home also increase the level of security. The most sophisticated motion detectors include a feature to ignore pets' movement to avoid constantly setting the alarm off inadvertently.

2. Installation, Monitoring, and Repair Services increase not only the level of safety but the convenience of keeping your home safe. A house alarm alone cannot notify the police or fire department in the event of an emergency. The most complete systems include buttons to notify police departments, fire departments and medical help instantly. Another advantage offered by the best monitoring companies is live customer support and full service installation and repair of the system by employees who have been background checked, licensed and drug tested to ensure your safety. Finally, some companies even offer relocation services to keep you secure even when you move.

1. The classic Master Control Panel is vital to any home alarm system. The central hub of the system, the control panel is usually wall-mounted in an easily accessible place. The panel receives information from all other sensors and key pads, computes it, and transmits relevant information to the monitoring company. If you choose to arm the system from the panel when you leave the house, the master control panel also receives the disarm code when you return home. Some can even be disarmed by telephone!

Of course, this list is not comprehensive, and the needs of every home and homeowner are different. For more tips on choosing the right home alarm system and features to protect your house, I recommend visiting alarmoneinc.com.


Top Ten House Alarm and Home Security Devices

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Saturday, November 19, 2011

Roach Repellent - 5 Ways To Keep Cockroaches Out Of Your Home

!: Roach Repellent - 5 Ways To Keep Cockroaches Out Of Your Home

Repelling cockroaches is one portion of an integrated pest management solution for ridding your home of cockroach infestations. If the roaches don't like the environment of your home, they are less likely to enter and nest in the first place. If you can find roach repellents that don't also repel all the humans you know - even better.

The following 5 roach repellents might just do the trick to make your home the last place a roach wants to live:

Pepper Spray - Roaches don't like red pepper. So, if you spray surfaces in your kitchen and bath with a solution containing red pepper, the will avoid those surfaces. An easy recipe to whip up a batch of spray is to mix 2 tablespoons of Tobasco Sauce (the primary ingredients are red pepper and vinegar) with 1 quart of water. Pour it into a pump spray bottle and mist it onto surfaces. A word of caution, you will be misting pepper spray into the air. Until the mist settles, you are likely to sneeze more than a few times. Consider wearing a mask when you apply the spray.

Moth Balls - Roaches, like moths, don't like the smell of moth balls. One common remedy is to drop a couple moth balls behind the stove to keep the bugs from hanging out back there. One or two in the cabinet under the sink can be helpful as well. Moth balls are not good for humans, so don't place them near food or food prep areas.

Cedar Products - The oils in cedar wood are an effective natural deterrent for a host of bugs. There are many products available to take advantage of this fact. Look for thin cedar veneers that can be used to line drawers and cabinets, cedar balls, blocks, chips, etc to place in drawers and closets, and (of course) cedar boards and paneling to line closet walls for the ultimate protection.

Mint Oil - Mint oil is a primary ingredient in several non-toxic roach sprays. The roaches avoid it, and when coated with it, they suffocate. The sprays don't kill as fast as typical poisons, but they are safe to use in the kitchen and around pets and children. It is possible to create a spray, like the pepper spray, by diluting some Dr. Brauner's Peppermint Castile Soap in water and then applying with a spray bottle. I haven't tried it, but you might be able to create your own roach spray this way if the soap concentration is high enough.

Bay Leaves - Bay leaves are another sent that roaches avoid. You can pick up a bunch of dry bay leaves in the spice section of any grocery. Place whole leaves or small sachets of crushed leaves in closets and cabinets. This is a good option for kitchen cupboards.

With the exception of moth balls, there are no hazardous chemicals in any of these roach repellents. Give them a try, in combination with baiting, sealing, and applications of diatomaceous earth and boric acid to eliminate roaches from your home.


Roach Repellent - 5 Ways To Keep Cockroaches Out Of Your Home

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Thursday, November 17, 2011

Packing Up for a Long Motorcycle Trip

!: Packing Up for a Long Motorcycle Trip

Weeks before I’m ready to leave on a long motorcycle trip, I start getting excited. Often I get to the point where I can think of anything else. Unfortunately, this doesn’t mean that I spend the time getting prepared for it. I usually put this off to the very end. I’ve learned however over the years that this means that my packing never matches what I will really need for the trip. Proof, last year I was in Sturgis with nothing more than a sweatshirt and leather vest riding around in 45 to 55 degree weather. DUMB MOVE.
Anyway, to try to avoid that I’ve started putting a list together of the stuff I need to pack for every trip and where I want to store it on the motorcycle. To help me build the list I put everything in categories to help keep it a little more organized. The categories I use are:
Things to keep the Motorcycle Rolling Things to keep the Motorcycle Secure Things to keep the rider going Protective clothing and gear (Riding Gear) Hygiene Camping Equipment Miscellaneous Stuff
Things to keep the Motorcycle Rolling

Regardless of your mechanical skills, on long trips you will usually end up having to fix something on your motorcycle. It’s just the nature of motorcycles. At a bare minimum I always carry tire patch and CO2 cartridges to perform those road side tire problems and hope I don’t have far to go till the next motorcycle shop. If the shop is a fair distance away you should have tools that would allow you to remove the tire and hitch a ride. Since I ride a Harley Davidson (not balanced and not rubber-mounted) I always carry a complete set of wrenches, Torx, and Allen wrenches, along with a bottle of LocTite to tighten up those parts that think it would be better to end up on the side of the road. I also carry a small multi-tool that includes a small LED flashlight because it seems I always breakdown after dark. In my tool pouch you can almost (important word there) always find extra fuses, an extra sparkplug and extra light bulbs. And the two most important things, zip ties and electrical tape. After all with those you can fix just about anything that would keep you from making it down the road. I’ve found that for most brands of motorcycles you can find pre-packaged tool pouches that have a good set of tools lined up for you. Sometimes the quality of the tools may be questionable, but hey all they’re going to do is ride around in your saddlebags and they’ll do in a pinch.

Things to keep the Motorcycle Secure

If you plan your trips like me (NOT) you don’t always end up staying at the most reputable establishments. It’s always a good idea to lock your bike and have some way of locking the wheels. At least that way you’ll keep the lazy motorcycle thieves from getting away with your bike. I always carry two keys for every lock with me when I travel. There’s the ones that I carry in my pocket or attached to my belt, and the ones I carry deep in my bag for when I lose the other ones. As for disc lock I really recommend them. They are small, strong and provide a pretty good deterrent. They don’t however address the case where someone comes with a lift and just hauls your bike away. For that you need to carry a heavy duty cable or chain lock to tie your bike to a solid structure. I personally don’t like these due to the bulk and weight that they add to the saddlebags, but then I have pretty good insurance to replace the motorcycle if it’s stolen.

Things to keep the rider going

Taking care of the rider is every bit, if not more so, important as keeping the motorcycle going. When we are out there in the wind there are millions of things that affect our ability to be comfortable and safe. Some of these I’ve discussed in other articles. First and foremost we need to make sure that we are protected from the sun. Getting sunburned on your arms, hands and face can absolutely ruin a good day of riding. I carry a stick sunscreen that has a SPF-30 rating and is waterproof and dries instantly. I use it on any skin that I have exposed to the sun. In addition I always carry a lip balm. Chapped lips can be a very painful thing on the road.

Both sunburn and chapped lips can sneak up on you without you being aware of it. Other things that I pack are a first aid kit that includes bandages, pain reliever and antiseptic ointments. Injuries on the road can become infected very easy due to the road grim that we are constantly hit by.

Perhaps my most important piece of equipment is my cell phone. I always carry that with me and make sure that it’s always charged. Today, there is probably no piece of equipment that is more important than a cell phone in case of emergency. I usually carry a charger for use at night and a 12v car charger. Luckily I’ve installed a lighter on my motorcycle that allows me to charge my phone from the bike. This way I never have to worry about being stranded with a dead phone.

While I’m talking about phones, please make sure that you have I.C.E. number coded into your address book on the phone. I.C.E. numbers are the first thing that emergency workers will look for In Case of Emergency. Having these number(s) in your phone can greatly increase your chances of getting proper medical care. Two basic considerations for the numbers should be:
Make sure the numbers are current. It won’t do any good to have a number that is no longer valid specified as your ICE. Make sure that the person that answers that call has some basic knowledge about your medical history. Things like known allergies, blood type and doctors’ name. By providing this basic information the emergency medical workers will be able to make much more informed decisions.
Protective clothing and gear (Riding Gear)

On long trips you are most likely going to hit every kind of conceivable weather. No matter how hot it may get in the middle of that sunny summer day, there’s probably some cold miserable weather waiting out there for you. If you’re in the middle of the desert you’re sure to run into some rain. After all you are on a motorcycle. To be prepared, I save all of the space in my saddlebags for riding gear. My usual list is:
My colors. Can’t ride a bike without those. Leather Jacket preferably one that has a removable lining and good ventilation. Chaps. Make sure they fit well and are in good condition. Fingerless gloves and full fingered gloves A couple of extra doo rags. I’m always losing those things. Face mask of some sort. I’ve got a windshield on my bike and that protects me most of the time but in heavy rain, hail and the cold a neoprene face mask really helps. Sunglasses and/or goggles. I personally like the convertible combos, which can change from sunglasses to goggles and have interchangeable lenses. My personal favorites are the SG-1 from WileyX. Rain Suit. One of those cheap sets from Wally World won’t do. Sure they may keep you dry for awhile, but more often than not you’ll get 30 miles down the road and the suit will be flying behind you like streamers. Don’t skimp here. A couple of bandannas will always come in handy. If the weather is going to be extremely hot then a polymer crystal cooling bandanna is a great piece of gear to be carrying. I usually carry this in a small baggie that helps keep it fresh and keeps other things from getting wet from it when not in use.

Of course as has been said millions of times “Dressing in layers is the way to go”. Being able to add layers and take off layers can substantially add to your riding comfort. As far as clothing is concerned keep it to a minimum. Carry enough for a few days and plan wash stops into your trip. This will help keep your load manageable. The key is to pack for all the conditions you are likely to run into but keep the load as sparse as possible. Get creative and figure out multiple uses for different pieces of clothing and the best way to extend the wear-ability of the clothes. After all if you get caught in the rain without your rainsuit, those clothes are good for another day. Aren’t they?

Hygiene

Even a scummy old biker like me likes to clean up every once in awhile. And since I often alternate between camping and motels I carry things to wash up with. These would include a towel, washcloth and those little bars of soap and bottles of shampoo you can get at most motels. It helps that in my day job I travel all the time so I’ve got a life time supply of those.

I’m also trying to keep the last few remaining teeth that I have so that means I have to carry my toothbrush and toothpaste. Since I’ve got long hair I have to carry a brush to get the rat’s nest that forms in my hair every day out. Usually on long trips I don’t shave, but I always have a razor with me. I just use the soap to lather up on my face instead of carrying shaving cream.

One last item you should never leave without is toilet paper. There’s nothing worse than suddenly needing it when you’re out on the road and not having it. I usually start out with a small quantity which would take care of the duties a couple of times. If I end up using that up, I usually restock courtesy of the next gas stop or hotel.

All of this is carried in a small bag that I always have packed so I never have to worry about it. If I use something, I replace it and it’s a thoughtless act to throw that in the T-Bags.

Camping Equipment

Camping equipment is probably one of the hardest things to carry and pack on a motorcycle. This is based mostly on the fact that it usually bulky and doesn’t necessarily pack down real well. Even when they pack down the bags seem to be longer than you would want. They usually end up being to tall if you tie them on standing up, or to wide if you try to have them laying down.

For a tent, I’ve found that the small two man dome tents work best. They are easy to set up, have plenty of room to spread out in at night (if there’s only one person in it), and they pack down pretty nice. My tent originally came in a flimsy nylon bag that I knew would hold up to rolling down the road so I replaced the bag with a sturdier one. My tent is usually bungeed onto my T-Bag and additional one to attach it to the motorcycle.

On the other side of the T-Bag, I have my mattress. As the years have gone by that ground has gotten harder and harder. I use one of those self-inflating mattresses that blow themselves up. While they’re not the most comfortable, it sure beat sleeping on the ground. In the morning all you have to do is open the valve, roll it up and it’s ready to go. I got a bag to carry the mattress in too.

Miscellaneous Stuff

I’ve always found that carrying cameras on a motorcycle trip can be a pain. The old styles (film based) have a tendency to take up to much space. And the digital camera require to much accessory stuff, like chargers, place to download the pictures and such. For a while I was carrying Advantix cameras, since they can be relatively small and take good quality pictures. Now I’ve never been a fan of the panoramic views but that is available on them. I’m now carrying a digital camera and have bought several different memory cards for it. This way I can use the cards like regular film and don’t have to carry all the stuff to download the pictures until I get home.

Other important items are a wallet, credit cards and money. Can’t keep going without these. And the one thing that I consider the most important, a notebook and pens. When I’m on a trip it’s great to be able to keep notes about what you saw, how the motorcycle was running, where I stayed and interesting characters I meet along the way. It’s also important cause if you’re like me and suffer from CRAFT disease (write me if you want to know what that stands for) it’s a great way to refresh your memories of the trip years from now.

Now that the bike’s all loaded up one last thing to remember is that with all the additional weight of the stuff you’re carrying the motorcycle is likely to handle differently. Remember to try to keep the weight as low and as close to the center of the motorcycle as possible. This will help keep the front wheel from getting to light or making the motorcycle a little top heavy. Make sure everything is strapped on real well. Good straps and bungies will give you a good dose of peace of mind knowing that your load is secure.

Be Safe … Enjoy the Ride

Tools

[http://www.bikerwares.com]


Packing Up for a Long Motorcycle Trip

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Monday, November 7, 2011

Mouse Repellent: Critter Out Mouse & Rat Repellent 2 1/2 Gallon Concentrate (Makes 25 Gallons)

!: Lowest Price Mouse Repellent: Critter Out Mouse & Rat Repellent 2 1/2 Gallon Concentrate (Makes 25 Gallons) look to

Brand : Mouse Repellent: Critter Out | Rate : | Price :
Post Date : Nov 08, 2011 01:15:14 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days

CRITTER OUT is a safe all natural solution to effectively repel Rats, mice, raccoons, opossums, squirrels, chipmunks and many other rodents and pests from your home, sheds, RVs, garages and garden areas.

  • 100% all natural ingredients
  • 100% Money back guarantee if unsatisfied

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Thursday, October 27, 2011

Outdoor Pest Repeller, Rat and Mouse - Battery Powered

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Post Date : Oct 27, 2011 10:00:43
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Of course, as with all methods involving animal behaviour, we can't guarantee effectiveness in every situation, however, our own experience and the feedback we get from customers suggests that this device is effective in most situations.

Please note that if you leave food out for birds, the food will be an attractant to rodents and squirrels, making it more difficult for any repeller to be effective.

*Complete with "on/off" switch to save the battery when not required. (in normal use, expect battery life of 3 - 4 months depending on how many times the PIR motion sensor is activated).
*It will affect cat and dog pets if they are outside, but the noise wont pass through the walls of the house.
*It shouldn't affect birds, however, please note that if you're trying to use it in a bird house, the motion sensor will be activated by the birds and the battery won't last long.

Give us a call if you want to know more about how they work - speak to one of our experts for a full explanation of how to get the most out of these humane and effective deterent systems.

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Wednesday, October 19, 2011

Evictor Strobe Light 10K

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Brand : Pest Tools | Rate : | Price : $169.00
Post Date : Oct 19, 2011 23:30:43 | Usually ships in 24 hours


  • Repels Squirrels, Rats, & Raccoons from Attics & Crawlspaces
  • Covers 30 by 30 square foot area
  • Includes Strobe Tube and Metal Hook for Installation
  • 175,000 Candle Power Strobe Light
  • Humane & Effective

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Evictor Strobe Light 10K

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Sunday, October 16, 2011

How to Draw a Skunk

!: How to Draw a Skunk

Skunks are shy creatures, renowned for their pungent and powerful predator-deterrent - an irremovable, foul-smelling spray. The spray is a greasy fluid produced by the scent glands present under its large curly tail, on the either side of their anal sphincters. This defensive response in the form of spray and their distinct white on black color design are usually adequate to dissuade nearly all the attackers. The two lateral stripes forming a chevron (V-shape) merge behind the head.

There are many different species of skunks. They vary in size and sport striped, dotted, and/or twirled patterns. Generally omnivorous in nature, skunks are opportunistic feeders with a diverse diet. They are nocturnal scavengers that eat fruits, plants, worms, larvae, eggs, insects, lizards, small mammals, and fish. Skunks nest in burrows built by other animals, while also residing in hollow woods or uninhibited buildings.

Majorly found in Americas, skunks are active throughout the year and do not hibernate even in North Arizona. Skunks are crepuscular and solitary animals, except for the breeding season. Female skunks deliver between two and ten young ones each year.

Things you will need:
1. Pencil
2. Paper/ Canvas
3. Colors (optional)
4. Paint Brush (Optional)

Directions to draw a skunk:
1. Outline: Drawing a skunk involves a detailed study of its anatomy. To begin, we can zero down to the basic structure. The description below refers to a diagonally positioned skunk. The steps are:
• Body outline: Draw a small oval for the head. Next, draw the shape of the body, resembling a jellybean.
• Face: In the oval for the head, sketch a round shape and a strip to form its snout. Draw 2 almond shaped eyes on the either side of the head. Add a hint of a nose. Carefully draw ears on both sides of the head.
• Body: Trace out the body shape of the skunk with a jagged edge stroke to show the fur.
• Tail: From the end of the body, draw a thick curly tail arced upwards.
• White lateral strip: Draw out one strip (as visible diagonally) from the top of the head, stretching down the back, until tail. The strip starts very thin from the snout and broadens significantly from behind the head, while slanting down the body length.
• Limbs: Starting from the body, draw the lines for the skunk's legs, long toes, and nails.

2. Shading/coloring: Shading or coloring instantly enhances any drawing or painting. It will do the trick here too.
• Eyes: Darken the eyes and nose with a mix of deep brown and black shade.
• Body: Fill black color in the body with long arced strokes. Leave the lateral strip white.
• Tail: Tail will carry a mix of black and white. The strokes need to be tilted, down facing 'C-shaped' curves. Your skunk is ready!


How to Draw a Skunk

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Saturday, April 2, 2011

Victor M751 Mini PestChaser Ultrasonic Rodent Repellent

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Brand : Victor | Rate : | Price : $6.24
Post Date : Apr 02, 2011 17:16:12 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days


Why deal with having to dispose of dead mice caught in ordinary traps? This keeps the mice from wanting to stay in your nice food-filled home. The Victor Mini PestChaser emits high frequency sound waves that effectively repel rodents from protected areas. For use in average-sized rooms, kitchens, garages, attics and basements. The sound is completely inaudible to people and non-rodent pets. Varying intensity and frequencies of ultrasonic sound waves prevents rodents from getting used to the Victor Mini PestChaser. Since the sound is inaudible, a red LED light tells you the unit is working properly. It's kinder than traps, safer than poisons, and there are no dead rodents to dispose of so it minimizes human contact with mice, rats, and other disease-bearing rodents. Reduction in rodent activity should occur within 6-10 days. Estimated service life of the unit is 5-7 years or more. Note: Ultrasonic sound cannot penetrate furniture, cabinets or walls. Multiple units required for multiple rooms.

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Thursday, March 24, 2011

Black & Decker EP1100-A Ultrasonic Pest Repeller, Black

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Brand : Black & Decker | Rate : | Price : $19.95
Post Date : Mar 24, 2011 14:16:53 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days


  • Multiple pest settings
  • Large room coverage such as a Garage or Basement
  • Variable settings for repelling mice, spiders, cockroaches and other pests
  • Safe for use around dogs, cats, birds, gerbils, fish
  • Measures 4 by 4 by 9 inches (d x h x w); weighs 1 pound

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Black & Decker EP1100-A Ultrasonic Pest Repeller, Black

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